SKU · 01062111

Red-Kote

Flexible fuel tank liner that seals leaks and stops rust

Size 1 qt · Metal can · Case of 1
$69.05 / metal can
Fast shippingFrom Alliance, OH
Available · ships today
30‑day returns
Net‑30 availableFor verified facilities
Ships from OhioSame‑day before 2pm ET
30‑day returnsEven on opened cases
Made in OhioSince 1938
$
Net‑30 financingFor verified facilities

Red-Kote

Red-Kote is a flexible polymer fuel tank liner that seals pinhole leaks and stops further rusting. Lined on more than 1 million vehicles since 1985, with fewer than 200 reported issues — every one traceable to application error, not the coating itself.

Designed for gasoline tanks on motorcycles, cars, and trucks. Limited applications with aviation gasoline, diesel fuel, and some racing fuels. Biodiesel, racing fuels, and methanol-containing additives should be tested before use.

Red-Kote seals the small leaks that often form along seams and where straps wrap around the tank. It also seals light rust under the coating so it cannot flake off to plug fuel-line filters or cause engine damage, and prevents further rusting by keeping condensation away from the metal.

What makes Red-Kote different

  1. Stays flexible. The coating won’t crack as some others do. Tanks coated in 1984 are still doing well.
  2. Tight adhesion. Won’t peel off even when the metal is bent — protects against loosening from vibration or denting.
  3. Methanol tolerant. Unaffected by up to 10% methanol. Above 10% may leach the red dye but the coating remains tightly bonded.
  4. Ethanol tolerant. Works fine with E10 through E50. Performs well in long-term E85 testing. Not recommended above E85.
  5. Faster drying. Dries faster than many other sealers. Thinning with acetone and applying two thin coats reduces time further.
  6. Levels well. No wide variation in thickness as with some other coatings.
  7. One-coat coverage. Usually only one coat needed. Holes up to 1/32" (1 mm) can be coated and sealed safely.
  8. Bright red color. Easily visible so you can be sure you didn’t miss a spot.

Packaging

Available in one-quart metal cans packed nine per case, or one-gallon metal cans packed one per case. Backed by Damon’s guarantee and over 70 years of service to the automotive industry.

What it isn't

Not for plastic or fiberglass tanks. Not for tanks larger than 50 gallons. Not for biodiesel, potable water, or racing fuels without prior consultation. Cannot be sprayed, even after thinning.

Common questions about Red-Kote

All help articles →
Application How long does Red-Kote take to cure?

Air-dry 8-24 hours with all openings open for airflow. Cured = no solvent smell. Adding fuel before fully cured will stop the cure permanently. Do not use a blower with open flame or electric elements anywhere near the tank — vapors are heavier than air and can travel to ignition sources.

Compatibility Will Red-Kote work with ethanol blends like E85?

Red-Kote performs well from E10 through E50 with no issues. It tolerates long-term E85 testing but is not recommended for sustained use above E85. For pure methanol or racing fuels with high methanol content, test compatibility first or contact us.

Compatibility Can I use Red-Kote on a plastic or fiberglass tank?

No. Red-Kote is formulated for metal fuel tanks (steel and terne-plated steel). It will not adhere to plastic or fiberglass surfaces. For non-metal tanks, contact a Damon rep for an alternative.

Compatibility What is the maximum tank size for Red-Kote?

Red-Kote is designed for tanks 50 gallons and smaller. Larger tanks don't get adequate coating coverage from the slosh-application method. For tanks over 50 gallons, talk to a rep about alternative coating products and application methods.

Surface compatibility

Tested at label concentration on common facility surfaces. For uncommon substrates, request a compatibility test from your Damon rep.

Steel tankPrimary use case
Terne-plated steelDo not boilout — high alkalinity strips the tin
!
Plastic tankWill not stick to plastic
!
Fiberglass tankDo not use on fiberglass
!
Pre-coated tankRemove old coating completely first (MEK, acetone, or mechanical removal)
!
Harley Davidson gray epoxy paintKnock off loose paint with steel shot or chain before coating
!
Tank larger than 50 gallonsNot designed for tanks over 50 gallons

Surface compatibility

Steel tankPrimary use case
Terne-plated steelDo not boilout — high alkalinity strips the tin
!
Plastic tankWill not stick to plastic
!
Fiberglass tankDo not use on fiberglass
!
Pre-coated tankRemove old coating completely first (MEK, acetone, or mechanical removal)
!
Harley Davidson gray epoxy paintKnock off loose paint with steel shot or chain before coating
!
Tank larger than 50 gallonsNot designed for tanks over 50 gallons

Fuel compatibility

Gasoline (standard)Primary intended use
!
Diesel fuelTanks previously used with diesel must be sand-blasted first — paraffin coating prevents adhesion
!
Aviation gasolineLimited applications — test before use
Ethanol blends E10–E50Works fine with 10%–50% ethanol mixtures
!
Ethanol E85Performs well in long-term E85 testing (51–85% ethanol)
!
Ethanol E95 or higherLong-term testing shows deterioration. Not recommended above E85.
Methanol up to 10%Unaffected by federal-limit blends (max 5% in US gasoline)
!
Methanol above 10%Red dye may leach into fuel; coating itself remains tightly bonded
!
BiodieselDo not use with biodiesel fuel
!
Racing fuelsConsult Damon’s chemist before use — mixture-dependent
!
Water or water-based liquidsNot for potable water tanks or water-based fluids

Application directions

Step-by-step instructions. Read all steps and any caution-flagged steps in full before starting.

  1. 1

    Empty the tank

    Drain all fuel from the tank.

  2. 2

    Remove internal components

    Remove the sending unit, float, feed lines, filters, and anything else that could be clogged by the liner or that is made of plastic (which the liner will not stick to).

  3. 3

    Knock loose rust free

    Remove any loose rust by tapping the tank with a rubber mallet, or by tumbling or shaking it with a piece of chain inside. Flush out the debris.

  4. 4

    Treat heavy rust

    If significant rust remains, use a rust remover before proceeding.

  5. 5

    Clean the tank

    Use a water-soluble detergent or degreaser at 2 oz per gallon of tank capacity with hot water. Let it work for 15 minutes, then rinse thoroughly. Do NOT boilout — the high alkalinity strips tin from terne plate, and Red-Kote will not stick if the plating flakes off.

  6. 6

    Repair large leaks (professional only)

    Leaks larger than 1/32" (1 mm) must be repaired by a professional. Soldering is the standard method. NEVER use a torch on a fuel tank unless properly trained — explosion risk.

  7. 7

    Dry the tank completely

    This is critical. Without a blower, drying takes up to 12 hours. With a blower, about an hour. Fastest method: drain water for 5 minutes, then pour in 1 pint of MEK or acetone, slosh thoroughly, pour out. Repeat with a second pint and you're ready to coat immediately. Discard MEK/acetone safely — fumes are heavier than air and can travel to pilot lights and explode. Do not use a blower with MEK or acetone present.

  8. 8

    Plug all openings except one

    Cover all open holes in the tank with plugs or tape, leaving only the pour-in opening.

  9. 9

    Pour in Red-Kote

    Pour one to two quarts into the tank, then cover the last opening. One quart is enough for tanks ~12 gallons or smaller; two quarts for larger tanks to ensure the coating flows behind all baffles.

  10. 10

    Slosh to coat every surface

    Tip the tank onto each side and slosh the coating around. Use a rocking motion, NOT shaking. Be thorough so you don't miss areas behind baffles.

  11. 11

    Drain excess

    Drain excess coating into a can and cover tightly for reuse. Stand the tank with a corner drain hole over the can. Tilt in every direction, holding for 30 seconds each, to let liner flow to the drain. Do NOT leave puddles — they may never cure.

  12. 12

    Cure 8–24 hours

    Open all openings for airflow. Air-dry 8–24 hours. Cured = no solvent smell. If fuel is added before fully cured, curing stops. No open flame or electric elements — explosion risk. Don't blow air into the tank for at least 60 minutes.

  13. 13

    Optional second coat

    For severe leaks or heavy rust, apply a second coat after the first has fully dried.

  14. 14

    Reassemble and reinstall

    Reinstall sending unit, feed lines, and other components. Mount the tank back on the vehicle.

  15. 15

    Clean up

    Use methyl ethyl ketone, acetone, or a quality lacquer thinner with no alcohol in it. Do not use alcohol-based lacquer thinner.